The capital of the island (about 2500 residents) is not very exciting so we drive through stopping only for petrol. Just beyond we turn off the road to Therma on a whim. This tiny seaside town, known since antiquity for its hot springs (radio-active water gives you a glow) is broken down and very local. We stop to take a look at the harbour / beach and decide to take a swim. There is a cute little change room on the beach so we change and swim and snack on our provisions on the beach.
A few ordinary looking locals are around with their children playing on the pier and in the water. The sea is calm and lovely to float in within this rocky cove with a few small boats floating. Very relaxed we head up over the mountain by another high pass and head for home.
Ikaria has lots of water, parts of it are harsh, parts very rocky and some stretches have dense green shrubs and bracken. Before returning home we stop at one small seaside town, everything is closed for siesta so we fail to get coffee but the silent town is fantastically photogenic - all old buildings and crazy old doors and windows (and cats everywhere).
We return home to sleep and recover before heading to the next village to the recommended ‘Mary-mary’. This little place serves traditional Ikarian food which I enjoy: Light red wine - like a Spanish red Strange, strong goats cheese with a red wine and thyme sauce - weird but good. Ikarian Pies - cheese and herb pies - brilliant; crusty, fresh light and tasty. A traditional stew thing cooked slowly in clay Very herby chicken dish with rice - full of string flavours
The waiter thinks we are Dutch from our language - so strange. As we leave he gives us Mastic gum in Raka and cherry syrup - a traditional taste he says he “has known as long as I’ve known myself”. I love the way that greeks speak English - old school and metaphorical. A short drive in darkness takes us home to bed.