28th May 2019 - Andrew

The capital of the island (about 2500 residents) is not very exciting so we drive through stopping only for petrol. Just beyond we turn off the road to Therma on a whim. This tiny seaside town, known since antiquity for its hot springs (radio-active water gives you a glow) is broken down and very local. We stop to take a look at the harbour / beach and decide to take a swim. There is a cute little change room on the beach so we change and swim and snack on our provisions on the beach.

A few ordinary looking locals are around with their children playing on the pier and in the water. The sea is calm and lovely to float in within this rocky cove with a few small boats floating. Very relaxed we head up over the mountain by another high pass and head for home.

Ikaria has lots of water, parts of it are harsh, parts very rocky and some stretches have dense green shrubs and bracken. Before returning home we stop at one small seaside town, everything is closed for siesta so we fail to get coffee but the silent town is fantastically photogenic - all old buildings and crazy old doors and windows (and cats everywhere).

We return home to sleep and recover before heading to the next village to the recommended ‘Mary-mary’. This little place serves traditional Ikarian food which I enjoy: Light red wine - like a Spanish red Strange, strong goats cheese with a red wine and thyme sauce - weird but good. Ikarian Pies - cheese and herb pies - brilliant; crusty, fresh light and tasty. A traditional stew thing cooked slowly in clay Very herby chicken dish with rice - full of string flavours

The waiter thinks we are Dutch from our language - so strange. As we leave he gives us Mastic gum in Raka and cherry syrup - a traditional taste he says he “has known as long as I’ve known myself”. I love the way that greeks speak English - old school and metaphorical. A short drive in darkness takes us home to bed.

28th May 2019 - Cara

I found the drive down absolutely terrifying and was very upset with myself. But it seemed an involuntary, phobic reaction. The drop down was vast and sheer and there was no verge (although often a fence - a low fence) and we were on the outside. I constantly felt we were going to barrel over, and so couldn’t watch much which was sad as it was spectacular.

On the other side I gathered some stones but controlled myself more than at a scratch patch.

At Therma there is local life at the harbour. When we arrive a young mother and three boys swimming, jumping off the pier and chasing around. Later a man who knows her with his two kids all come and swim. I watch his little girl - the only girl - stand on the edge of the pier and try to pluck up the courage to jump after the boys have; with her father encouraging her from the beach. I empathise so much. She even has a little tummy! She eventually moves up and I feel sad for her.

The beach is pebbles which are really hard to walk on. But the water is wonderful - warm, but not too warm like the Seychelles, and beautifully clear. You can see the bottom and for into it - nothing like the Cape Town waters.

The Ikarian pie we found elsewhere - on the mainland sold as ‘Green pie’. But this restaurant was the best. The pie was the highlight in an otherwise disappointing meal (given how Mary-Mary had been sold). That and the mastic gum (a marble sized waxy ball on a stick) - which was awesome.

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